In Mercedes 126 Repair: Forgotten Fluids, Part I we looked at the rear differential. Now let's turn our attention to one more water that most owners never bother to change -- energy steering fluid.
POWER STEERING FLUID CHANGE
Most Mercedes 126 owners will in no way take apart their recirculating-ball steering gear box. But those that do gain a new-found appreciation for the importance of clean water within the power-steering system. In addition towards key worm gear assembly and the interface in between the ball nut plus the sector gear that actually turns the Pitman arm, you will find various sets of needle bearings. All these moving parts are lubricated by constant flows of electric power steering fluid. The additional heavily contaminated that liquid is, the a lot more rapidly these components will wear. And a worn steering box translates into sloppy steering, potential safety hazards, and an costly repair or replacement. (The power steering pump, by contrast, is much, a lot much easier to replace, and excellent utilised units is usually sourced for as small as $50.)
There has been some debate about the propriety of employing automatic transmission water (ATF) in this system. While ATF was specified in the owners manual, ATF isn't what it utilised to be and has turn out to be somewhat hostile to the quite a few seals within the steering system. Ideally, ATF ought to be eschewed in favor of plain old strength steering fluid. While synthetic fluids are available, conventional fluids are perfectly fine.
To adjust the fluid, support the front with the automobile on jack stands making sure that both front wheels are off the ground. Undo the hose clamp securing the return hose for the return "snorkel" screwed into the pump, and direct the hose into a suitable container for catching the outdated fluid. Either plug the snorkel or loosen it which has a 19mm wrench and turn it making sure that it points upwards, allowing you to fill the reservoir with no losing water from the return fitting. The standard method here is always to start the engine and add fluid though the pump quickly forces the old smooth out. But this method has some major disadvantages. It is most emphatically not a one-man operation. The flow rate is so fast that there's an excellent chance from the pump running dry and sucking air unless a steady supply of new liquid is poured in. If points get out of hand, you'll need a helper to shut the engine off correct away. If you do not have a helper and do not need to danger damaging the pump or pulling air in to the system, you may need a far better way.
Fortunately, it's perfectly probable to pump out the aged smooth in a extremely controlled fashion simply by turning the steering wheel from quit to stop. Maintain the liquid level inside the reservoir above the filter to prevent the ingress of air, and continue until you happen to be satisfied that the liquid leaving the method by way of the return hose is clean. You need 2-3 quarts to fully replenish the fluid, though if you are attempting to remove all traces of (red) ATF you might uncover it takes a small a lot more to end up having a completely clean reservoir. When you are happy, reconnect the return hose and thoroughly bleed the method by turning the steering wheel back and forth with the motor running.
You usually do not will need expert aid to check or change the electrical power steering liquid of one's car. If you've an older model, note that it may not have energy steering. Circumstances under which you must adjust the steering very smooth of your car are whenever you hear whining noises when turning the wheel, where you'll find leaks, when the strength steering liquid level has gone down on the indicator, each five years or a minimum of every single 100,000 miles, whichever comes first, and when the steering water changes color.
There's quite a bit of knowledge throughout the internet to do with how to change power steering fluid like the most recent work by Dustin Youngg on How To Change Power Steering Fluid and When To Change Power Steering Fluid.
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